Tourist Infrastructure

The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – is a Peace Park with completely different tourist concepts in Botswana and South Africa. In Botswana camp sites are the only accommodation provided, which are only equipped with basic infrastructure or none at all. Especially in the Mabuasehube Region camp sites are usually not more than a “Camping Site“ sign, at least the camping site in Two Rivers is equipped with sanitary installations and sun shades. Four-wheel drive vehicles are needed on the entire Botswana area of the park. On the contrary, the management of the KTP on the South African side even had a study made to analyse the tourist potential of the park, especially to find out how many visitors the park could bear. It turned out that due to the already high numbers of visitors and the notorious lack of water, the park’s capacities regarding tourist numbers were close to their limits already. Furthermore, in some parts of the park the quality of the very salty water is so bad that it cannot even be used for cooking. Due to the lack of water, the maximum number of visitors per day is limited to 698 people a day on the South African side. This number results from the accommodation available in the park, both in tents as well as in chalets. As the park is very remote, day

visitors are usually not seen and tourists normally stay for at least one night. The extremely poor condition of the last 60 km of the road to the park is another deterrent for day visitors and also because of that a limitation of their numbers is not necessary. However, Fanie van Tonder, manager of the Department for Tourism at the KTP expects numbers of day visitors to increase as soon as the road is improved and asphalted. He expects that the park administration at some point will have to consider a limitation of day visitors as especially the picnic areas in the park, which would be frequented most by short time visitors, should not get overcrowded. A big challenge for the future is to motivate guests to visit the park also during the hot season between November and February, as during the main season at some times tourists are refused admittance because no accommodation is available inside the park. Ten to fifteen years ago there were sometimes no guests visiting the park at all during December and the employees were sent on holidays. Since the chalets are equipped with air-condition, tourists also visit during the hot season. The camp in Twee Rivieren has a 24-hour power supply; the camps in Mata Mata and Nossob provide electricity from 5 a.m. till 11 p.m. only.

(Interview Van Tonder 2005 a)

I. Traditional Camps

There are three fenced Rest Camps on the South African side. These are equipped with basic infrastructure and information centres. Twee Rivieren is the administrative centre and at the same time, the largest Rest Camp on South African side. It is located at the most southern point of the park, right after the main entrance. An information centre, the border control, a restaurant, a shop and a petrol station as well as a swimming pool are located there. It is also the starting point for “Guided Day Walks“ and “Nightdrives“. (cf. SANP 2004: 8) 31 chalets with a total number of 112 beds and a camp site with 30 spaces with a maximum of six people per space bring the total of accommodation provided at Twee Rivieren to 292 people. (cf.

Interview Van Tonder 2005 b) The Nossob Camp, constructed in the 1960s, is centrally located on the bank of the Nossob River. This newly renovated Rest Camp features a shop and a petrol station as well as an information centre on predatory animals. Guided day walks and nightdrives can be arranged at this camp as well. (cf. SANP 2004: 8) 18 chalets with a total of 59 beds and 20 positions at the camp site for six people each, mean that 179 people can be housed at Nossob. (Interview Van Tonder 2005 b) Mata Mata, which was also constructed in the 1960s, is the smallest of the three traditional camps and is located near the

SANP 2004: 8) Eight chalets with a total of 29 beds and a campsite with 20 positions for six people each bring the total number of accommodations to 149. (Interview Van Tonder 2005 b)

II. Wilderness Camps

The inauguration of the KTP has further increased the popularity of the park so that the demand for accommodation could no longer be met during high season. Instead of constructing another large Rest Camp, the park administration decided, also bearing the water situation in mind, to build six small Wilderness Camps offering tourists the opportunity to stay overnight at nine different places on the South African side. (Interview Van Toonder 2005 a) These new wilderness camps are not fenced to give visitors the feeling of “becoming one with the Kalahari”. Then again this also has the consequence that an armed ranger has to be present day and night in each camp and the park guidelines advice not to leave the individual housings during night. Every camp is built in an individual design and is superbly equipped with kitchen, bedroom and bath. Solar panels supply energy and gas-fired heaters provide the different accommodation units with hot water. Shops, petrol stations or other infrastructure are not available at wilderness camps. The Kalahari Tented Camp with its 15 chalets and 38 beds is the largest of the wilderness camps. It is located nearby the Mata Mata Camp and also provides a swimming pool. The elegantly designed linen-made tents are aligned to offer the visitors a breathtaking view on a water hole in the parched Auob River.

Bitterpan is only accessible with a four wheel drive vehicle and connects the two traditional camps Mata Mata and Nossob. The four chalets with eight beds look out over a large pan with only very little trees. Gharagab can also only be reached with a four wheel drive car. It is located in the very north of the park, close to Union’s End, the border with Namibia. The four chalets with two beds each are situated in the middle of the tree- and grass savannah.

Grootkolk is also located near Union’s End but reachable with a two-by-four vehicle. The four chalets with two beds each overlook a water hole, often visited by beasts of prey. Kielie Krankie is situated on top of the Kalahari’s highest sand dune and therefore guarantees an endless view over the dunes. Furthermore, another watering hole can be viewed from the camp’s four housings with two beds each. The Urikaruus wilderness camp is built on stilts is surrounded by camelthorn trees and located on the Auob River. As from most of the other camps, the four chalets with a total of eight beds offer a view on a waterhole. (cf. SANP 2004: 9f) Since 2007 another accommodation is available in the park, the !Xaus Lodge. It was

built on the Mier and San Heritage Ground and offers luxurious ecotourism. Additional information on the !Xaus Lodge can be found in chapter 7. (cf. xauslodge 2008)

III. Botswana Camps and 4x4 Trails

Contrary to the well established tourist infrastructure on the South African side of the KTP, the picture is a completely different one in Botswana. The chances for tourists to encounter another car while being on a game drive on one of the 4x4 trails, is very little. Camp sites exist in Two Rivers, Rooiputs, Polentswa and the Mabuasehube area. Often a shady tree is the only infrastructure provided. Furthermore, there are three main 4x4 roads in Botswana. The Kaa Game Viewing Trail can be followed in both directions, trailers, however, are not permitted. The distance can be done in one day, whereas the park administration recommends one overnight stay. This part of the Kalahari is only sparsely populated by deer. The Polentswa Wilderness Trail is open to a maximum of five vehicles par day and no less than two a day. No trailers are allowed here as well and it is a one-way route. The relatively flat and sandy trail leads through an impressive pan, where game can often be watched. The exclusive Mabuasehube Wilderness Trail may only be followed from Mabuasehube to Nossob and no trailers are allowed here as well. Most of the trail runs through the tree savannah, a striking contrast to the red dune savannah of the park’s south-western part.

In addition to the three main roads two Access Routes exist. One runs between Nossob and Mabuasehube and the other between Kaa and Nossob. These access routes are accessible in both directions. (cf. SANP 2004: 11)

IV. Park Activities

Activities in the park, offered by SANParks, include options inside the various camps as well as in the wild. Two 4x4 trails are on offer, the short Leeuwdril Trail from Leeuwdril to Houmoed and the long Nossob Eco-Trail from Kij Kij to Polentswa, which may only be completed with a guide. Night drives are on offer to be able to watch wild-life activity during dawn and in total darkness. The Kalahari’s night sky with its innumerable stars is a perfect backdrop for a night drive. In early morning one may participate at a day walk and experience the Kalahari by foot. The Twee Rivieren Information Centre offers slideshows and videos of the Kalahari, a photo exhibition can be visited and guests are informed about the history of the park. At the Nossob Information Centre tourists learn interesting facts about local beasts